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 Acne is a term that is used to describe blocked pores (whiteheads and blackheads), deeper lumps (cysts or nodules) and pimples. These can occur anywhere including the face back and chest. Acne is not age specific but the characteristics and the treatment that is required depends on the age of the patient.
So what is a pimple or comedon?
It is basically a plugged sebaceous follicle with dead cells tiny hairs and bacteria. Blackheads are open comedons and whiteheads are closed. Papules are small raised lesions usually under 5mm. A pustule is a fragile lesion containing pus that has a hair through the middle. A macule is the remains of a healed acne lesion. They can stay red up to weeks but eventually will disappear without scarring. A nodule is a solid lesion. It is characterized by inflammation and extends into the deeper structures. Nodules may leave scars. A cyst is filled with liquid or semiliquid material consisting of white cells bacteria and dead cells. These too can leave scarring.
A few words on acne scarring.
Macules or red spots left after a pimple has gone away are not scars, they do not leave a permanent mark after the red goes away. Post-inflammatory pigmentation can happen after a pimple or nodule have healed. Post inflammatory pigmentation may persist up to 18 months, especially with sun exposure. Peels and bleaching agents can help with this.
Two types of scars can occur: raised and depressed. The best treatment to help with acne scarring is really to treat the active acne early. So here are a few rules if you have active acne:
Don’t pop or squeeze or pick. Acne treatment consists of reducing sebum production, removing dead skin cells and killing bacteria with topical drugs and oral medication.
-Do wash your face frequently. Remember it is due to clogged pores and dead cells.
Use a good cleanser with a salicylic or glycolic base. Diacneal is excellent for this. La Roche Posay also has a foaming gel cleanser called Effaclar. Also consider weekly or bi-weekly cleaning with La Roche Posay Pure Enzyme Mask .
- Follow any cleansing with a toner that will remove any traces of dirt such as La Roche Posay Effaclar Toner.
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After toning, apply a salicylic acid product. Salicylic acid is effective in treating non inflammatory acne lesions and it corrects abnormal shedding of the skin cells and unclogs pores by exfoliating the inside of the pore as well. To work, a salicylic product must be used continuously or the acne will return. Jan Marini Bioclear Bioglycolic lotion features microscopic sponge encapsulation that delivers salicylic acid along with the benefits of glycolic acid. La Roche-Posay has the Effaclar line which combines salicylic acid with their well known thermal spring water. Effaclar K treatment fluid is 1.5% salicylic acid. It is gentle enough that it can be used every day.
If you are looking for an all-inclusive treatment, consider MesoEstetic's Cosmelan Active Acne System treatment. The Cosmelan Active System mask contains strong ingredients to peel away dead skin cells, deep clean the pores, and kill acne bacteria. The treatment requires two applications 2 weeks apart. The kit contains enough products for the two applications.
Below I have suggested several acne products that I believe to be effective and worthwhile. No matter what product you there are a few rules ou must follow to have the most effect:
-First use the product as directed. Doubling up with these products will not get you faster results rather they will add to more irritation and inflammation of the skin. So follow the directions.
-Second, place all acne medication where you can see it every day. This way you remember to use it. Wash and wait. Be sure to wait 10 to 15 minutes before you apply topical acne medication This helps reduce the chance that the acne medication will irritate the skin.
- Apply these medication to the entire acne prone area not just the blemishes. Dab on smaller amounts rather than one large amount. This increases effectiveness. If you see redness, drying or peeling after treatment this shows that it is irritated. If this is happening, check your cleanser first.
- Stay with a gentle cleanser if your follow up treatment is aggressive. Avoid rubbing alcohol and all astringents. Consider using a light daily moisturizer one that is non comedogenic.
If these treatments are not effective there are still more treatments that can be obtained in the office of a dermatologist: facials with extractions, lasers, a prescriptive treatments including micronized Benzoyl Peroxide and antibiotics as well as the end treatment with Accutane.
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